BY FIEL ESTRELLA
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JL JAVIER
There’s nothing quite like walking into your local bakery on an early morning to survey its fresh offerings and going home with a loaf of your favorite bread, ready to share it with the family (or maybe keep it all to yourself, we won’t judge).
The folks of Toyo Eatery—particularly chefs Jordy Navarra and Richie Manapat—know this wonderful feeling all too well, and with their new concept Panaderya Toyo, they seek not only to capture this same vibe but to refine it. The bakery follows in its predecessor’s efforts to innovate and elevate traditional Filipino flavors and comfort food by going back to the basics. That means organic ingredients and attention to detail, with a focus on breadmaking as a process.
Located only a few doors down from Toyo Eatery, the panaderia was designed by Arts Serrano of One/Zero Design Collective and looks industrial yet cozy, with warm wooden displays and seats at the window for particularly pleasant days. Tables line the space and diners can watch as the bread is created and pulled out of the oven, making for an experience that’s both intimate and open.
Pan casero is Panaderya Toyo’s take on sourdough bread. Also available are the pan de sal, barra, buttermilk, pan mayaman, and pan de lata.
Tinapay and palaman combination of knotted pan de sal with scrambled free-range eggs, crispy fish, tortang talong, and tomatoes (P310)
With its straightforward, no-fuss menu, one might wonder what it is that makes the concept so special—but once your order arrives, there’s simply no question about it. There’s the Drink, Bread, and Spread, where you are served a bread of your choice, with either sweet or savory spread and coffee or hot chocolate. There are also cakes: choose from a slice of Tigre y Oliva dark chocolate and peanuts, or mango with tamarind and spiced tea.
Finally, there’s the Tinapay and Palaman set: the bread of your choice, served with one of four delicious combinations of flavors you’ve likely known since childhood, including scrambled free-range eggs with tomatoes, crispy fish, and tortang talong, and cured pork with pickled cucumbers, lime, and soy butter. The eggs are fluffy and life-changing; the tocino is unlike any you’ve ever had. Paired with a soft knotted pan de sal or a slice of pan casero with its crunchy exterior that gives way to a chewy interior, the results are a range of different textures and tastes that will change the way you look at bread.
Tinapay and palaman combination of pan casero with cured pork, chili oil, pickled cucumbers and lime, and soy butter (P350)
At Panaderya Toyo, the staff is friendly, the mood is pleasant, and it always smells like merienda time. It foregoes the come-and-go nature of typical bakeries and invites customers to stay awhile, or for as long as they want. It’s the kind of place that surprises you even when it already feels like home.
When you’re about to leave, however, don’t forget to take some homemade butter and a loaf or two to go. And this time, you will want to share.
Panaderya Toyo is located at The Alley at Karrivin Plaza, 2316 Chino Roces Avenue, Makati.