You can wear a suit every day. Ask the Signet guys at Shangri-La at The Fort, who make wearing a suit daily a breeze, literally, with quarter-lined jacket options in airy fabric. But for moments when temperatures and year-round humidity reach their tropical peak, a toss-up between comfort and style is easy when your trousers are able to hold your look together on their own.
The specialty lifestyle store recently hosted a two-day trunk show with the “king of trousers” himself, Salvatore Ambrosi. The fourth-generation tailor from Naples fitted clients for bespoke and made-to-measure trousers and introduced their ready-to-wear line at Signet. He also gave The Edition tips on what makes a perfect pair of pants.
Made to measure or bespoke?
“Some have a belly in size 46, but their hip and legs are size 44. Many men have this problem. This calls for bespoke, which is when we cut the trousers according to your body. Bespoke takes three months. I come back here to fit your trousers again. Some people care for the perfect fit. Some just want to wear it right away. For the latter, we have made-to-measure. We have trousers in a size ready here, like 46 and 48, and then make adjustments to these trousers according to your body. Then you choose the fabric you want. It just takes a month.”
You can also try their ready-to-wear line of trousers at Signet but they are no less precious than the former two. “They are the only trousers around that are fully handmade. 85% hand stitched.”
Defining the fit
“High waist but high rise, of course. One centimeter under your belly button. As you walk, move, sit, you will find they are more comfortable. Front balance is important. We like our trousers quite short. They make the legs look longer. We say it just needs to kiss your shoes, specifically the shoelaces. No need to embrace your shoes.”
Start with the basics
“Gray or medium gray trousers in wool [are a must]. It will go with whatever jacket you have. For casual days, I always suggest khaki color in chino or dark brown in linen. With these three things, it’s very easy to match everything in your wardrobe. For example, a blue jacket will go with brown.”
“They add front balance shape and fit. It makes it more comfortable when you sit or when you put your hands in your pocket. It’s something that opens and closes the pockets automatically.”
It’s in the details
“You should be able to wear your pants without braces or a belt. An extended waistband (four centimeters, while the average ones are only three centimeters) with a fabric lining inside holds the shape and will not wrinkle and collapse without a belt or braces. You can just wear a shirt with your trousers and it will look great.” To balance this visually, the Ambrosi style has a wider cuff of two inches or five centimeters.
Interview by Marbbie Tagabucba
Photos by Arabella Paner
Signet is at the ground floor of the retail area of Shangri-La at The Fort, 30th Street corner 5th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.